Product Details
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GRUEN WATCH Co. - one of the most important and prestigious American watch manufacturers, founded by a brilliant German horologist, Dietrich Gruen and later by his sons Fred and George Gruen.
"The most famous Gruen wristwatch was the Curvex. These watches are one of the greatest examples of 1930s streamlined design." In 1935, Gruen introduced the first Curvex wristwatches for men. Expanding on the then-current fashion of the rectangular wristwatch shapes, these models were curved to wrap around the wrist. The biggest innovation of the design was the ability to produce a movement which followed the shape of the case, allowing the watch to be thinner and more curved. This, in turn, allowed the movement to be larger, more durable and more accurate. In 1936, Gruen introduced Curvex models for women. "Your curved wrist deserves the world's only truly curved watch"
In 1937, Gruen introduced "The Ristside" or "Driver’s" watches. “A new Curvex worn at the side of your wrist, in direct line of vision when driving or working." The Ristside (wrist side) and Curvex-Ristside models. Designed to be worn on the side of the wrist, they place the dial in line with the base of the thumb. When driving, you can see the dial without turning your arm or letting go of the steering wheel. “These are some of the most fascinating, unusual and collectable wristwatches of the 1930s.”
The Ristside models feel very strange to wear the first time you try one on but reading the time is very convenient, you simply bend your elbow and leave your hand in its relaxed position. This feels very comfortable and natural. Interestingly, the Ristside models seem to have been marketed mainly to young people, and tended to show up in ads around graduation time. Several models were made in 1937-39. Most Curvex-Ristside models use 330 Curvex movements. One model, the Varsity, is not a Curvex, but uses Gruen caliber 401.
Gruen made very few driver's models; the line was apparently not commercially successful. They were introduced with great fanfare, then quickly vanished again. The true driver's watches are all rectangular, but have much more extreme curves than a normal Curvex. Except for the two models with hinged lugs, these watches are impossible to wear normally on top of the wrist.
Other watchmakers saw something in the design that the public, at least initially, did not. They picked up the baton and improved on it, opting to use one of three shapes that accommodated the sideways design: asymmetrical, convex or "ultra-curved." The asymmetrical designs allowed the driver to take a quick glance at the face of the watch from the profile as it sat on the wrist. The convex and, even more, the ultra-curved fit perfectly on the inside of one's wrist.
Among the manufacturers to play with a driver's watch design was Patek Philippe, which produced a softer-looking timepiece with a rectangular face that sat on the edge of the wrist and buckled accordingly. By the early 1940s, the wrists of more discerning -and monetized- drivers glimmered with driver's watches produced by makers such as Movado, Cartier, Universal Geneve, Vacheron Constantin and LeCoultre. With the numbers on the driver's watch dial re-oriented and noon shifted to the three o'clock position, it was both distinctive and practical.
These driver's watches are special, even when compared with other timepieces stamped with a famous manufacturer's logo, such as Ferrari or Bugatti, today. All of these watchmakers helped to refine the nature of the driver's watch, with designs that fit either on the side of the wrist or inside it.
GRUEN
Driver's Watch
"The Varsity"
Among the rarest and most collectable and famous of Gruen wristwatches, the extremely curved Gruen Driver’s wristwatch. Introduced in 1937, “Gruen turned the entire concept on its head by introducing the ‘Ristside’ watch.”
SERIOUS COLLECTORS ONLY! This is the rare and original (case, lugs and movement) curved Gruen Driver’s Ristside watch, “The Varsity” model and dated from 1939. Designed to fit on the side of the wrist (to be easy to see when driving), it is a 22mm curved case with fancy and curved lugs that let the face slide around.
It is a manual wind watch with the original Gruen movement caliber 401 (style 352), 15 jewels, signed Conoruma, Swiss made.
Very unique, after 80 years, it still looks preserved in time with the original curved champagne dial aligned with the base of the thumb let the driver check the time without relaxing his grip on the steering. Gold Arabic Numerals, bold minute tracks and gold matching hands. The dial is also signed with the Gruen name on top.
Gorgeous curved case and fancy curved lug design, all in 10K yellow gold filled and Guildite case back.
This watch in in LOVELY condition, it is a very attractive looking watch. It runs very well and keeps great time.
Thank you for looking! Please feel free to contact us with any questions, or respectful offers.
Movement:
Gruen Watch Co.
15 Jewels
Cal. 401 Style 352
Unadjusted
4-50028
Switzerland
Conoruma
Case Back Markers:
Cased & Timed in U.S.A.
By Gruen Watch Co.
Star Watch Case Co.
10K GFD Bezel Guildite Back
666215
401-352
Measures (mm):
Case 22.4 x 25.6
Case Lug to Lug 38.4
Case Thickness 9.8
Lug Width 13
Band Width 13
Vintage watches are traditionally smaller than today's watches. Men's watches typically measure between 29-36mm (some larger, some smaller) wide excluding the crown. In the listing details we typically try to do our best to list all pertinent dimensions of a watch. If you don't see it, or we failed to do so, please reach out to us. Women's watches from the 1900s-1970s were also much smaller than todays offerings. Please also feel free to ask any questions you have pertaining to size.
We prefer to shoot photographs outside when weather is permitting. However, when we shoot indoors, please be aware that we shoot our photographs inside of lightboxes that are lit with 360 LED bulbs. This indeed magnifies any flaws. Usually, they are much less obvious to the naked eye. Having said that, we never photoshop any of our photography, remove blemishes, etc. We adjust light when necessary, but what you see is what you are getting, and we take pride in that.
The condition is pre-owned.
The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended.
See all the photos, feel free to ask questions if you have any.
It will be carefully packed.
Check out my other items listed.
Thanks for looking and good luck with your bids.
WA-2971
"The most famous Gruen wristwatch was the Curvex. These watches are one of the greatest examples of 1930s streamlined design." In 1935, Gruen introduced the first Curvex wristwatches for men. Expanding on the then-current fashion of the rectangular wristwatch shapes, these models were curved to wrap around the wrist. The biggest innovation of the design was the ability to produce a movement which followed the shape of the case, allowing the watch to be thinner and more curved. This, in turn, allowed the movement to be larger, more durable and more accurate. In 1936, Gruen introduced Curvex models for women. "Your curved wrist deserves the world's only truly curved watch"
In 1937, Gruen introduced "The Ristside" or "Driver’s" watches. “A new Curvex worn at the side of your wrist, in direct line of vision when driving or working." The Ristside (wrist side) and Curvex-Ristside models. Designed to be worn on the side of the wrist, they place the dial in line with the base of the thumb. When driving, you can see the dial without turning your arm or letting go of the steering wheel. “These are some of the most fascinating, unusual and collectable wristwatches of the 1930s.”
The Ristside models feel very strange to wear the first time you try one on but reading the time is very convenient, you simply bend your elbow and leave your hand in its relaxed position. This feels very comfortable and natural. Interestingly, the Ristside models seem to have been marketed mainly to young people, and tended to show up in ads around graduation time. Several models were made in 1937-39. Most Curvex-Ristside models use 330 Curvex movements. One model, the Varsity, is not a Curvex, but uses Gruen caliber 401.
Gruen made very few driver's models; the line was apparently not commercially successful. They were introduced with great fanfare, then quickly vanished again. The true driver's watches are all rectangular, but have much more extreme curves than a normal Curvex. Except for the two models with hinged lugs, these watches are impossible to wear normally on top of the wrist.
Other watchmakers saw something in the design that the public, at least initially, did not. They picked up the baton and improved on it, opting to use one of three shapes that accommodated the sideways design: asymmetrical, convex or "ultra-curved." The asymmetrical designs allowed the driver to take a quick glance at the face of the watch from the profile as it sat on the wrist. The convex and, even more, the ultra-curved fit perfectly on the inside of one's wrist.
Among the manufacturers to play with a driver's watch design was Patek Philippe, which produced a softer-looking timepiece with a rectangular face that sat on the edge of the wrist and buckled accordingly. By the early 1940s, the wrists of more discerning -and monetized- drivers glimmered with driver's watches produced by makers such as Movado, Cartier, Universal Geneve, Vacheron Constantin and LeCoultre. With the numbers on the driver's watch dial re-oriented and noon shifted to the three o'clock position, it was both distinctive and practical.
These driver's watches are special, even when compared with other timepieces stamped with a famous manufacturer's logo, such as Ferrari or Bugatti, today. All of these watchmakers helped to refine the nature of the driver's watch, with designs that fit either on the side of the wrist or inside it.
GRUEN
Driver's Watch
"The Varsity"
Among the rarest and most collectable and famous of Gruen wristwatches, the extremely curved Gruen Driver’s wristwatch. Introduced in 1937, “Gruen turned the entire concept on its head by introducing the ‘Ristside’ watch.”
SERIOUS COLLECTORS ONLY! This is the rare and original (case, lugs and movement) curved Gruen Driver’s Ristside watch, “The Varsity” model and dated from 1939. Designed to fit on the side of the wrist (to be easy to see when driving), it is a 22mm curved case with fancy and curved lugs that let the face slide around.
It is a manual wind watch with the original Gruen movement caliber 401 (style 352), 15 jewels, signed Conoruma, Swiss made.
Very unique, after 80 years, it still looks preserved in time with the original curved champagne dial aligned with the base of the thumb let the driver check the time without relaxing his grip on the steering. Gold Arabic Numerals, bold minute tracks and gold matching hands. The dial is also signed with the Gruen name on top.
Gorgeous curved case and fancy curved lug design, all in 10K yellow gold filled and Guildite case back.
This watch in in LOVELY condition, it is a very attractive looking watch. It runs very well and keeps great time.
Thank you for looking! Please feel free to contact us with any questions, or respectful offers.
Movement:
Gruen Watch Co.
15 Jewels
Cal. 401 Style 352
Unadjusted
4-50028
Switzerland
Conoruma
Case Back Markers:
Cased & Timed in U.S.A.
By Gruen Watch Co.
Star Watch Case Co.
10K GFD Bezel Guildite Back
666215
401-352
Measures (mm):
Case 22.4 x 25.6
Case Lug to Lug 38.4
Case Thickness 9.8
Lug Width 13
Band Width 13
Vintage watches are traditionally smaller than today's watches. Men's watches typically measure between 29-36mm (some larger, some smaller) wide excluding the crown. In the listing details we typically try to do our best to list all pertinent dimensions of a watch. If you don't see it, or we failed to do so, please reach out to us. Women's watches from the 1900s-1970s were also much smaller than todays offerings. Please also feel free to ask any questions you have pertaining to size.
We prefer to shoot photographs outside when weather is permitting. However, when we shoot indoors, please be aware that we shoot our photographs inside of lightboxes that are lit with 360 LED bulbs. This indeed magnifies any flaws. Usually, they are much less obvious to the naked eye. Having said that, we never photoshop any of our photography, remove blemishes, etc. We adjust light when necessary, but what you see is what you are getting, and we take pride in that.
The condition is pre-owned.
The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended.
See all the photos, feel free to ask questions if you have any.
It will be carefully packed.
Check out my other items listed.
Thanks for looking and good luck with your bids.
WA-2971
